home2home

Brighton, UK to Graz, Austria. Some daunting 2.500+km.

Getting ready for our epic cycling tour was both a mental and physical challenge. Neither Andy nor I have ever tackled a journey of this magnitude before. While Andy has never cycled for more than three days in a row, my longest tour has been 900 kilometers. The fact that I broke both my heel bones just six months ago, probably means doing such a long trip might be silly but… whoops, we’re doing it.

In our preparation, we likely trained too little and packed too much, though knowing that Lisa would be there to rescue us if needed by being our looker after on the entire journey — a gesture for which we are immensely grateful — means we’re going to be just fine.

Day 1: Brighton to Rye

95.24 km | 5:42:32 moving time | 928 m Elevation

Day 1 started in Brighton at 7am, from ‘home’ - well, from Nessi’s, a place that will always feel like home to Nadja, in strong southwesterly winds with a band of rain due to hit at 10am.

The wind gave us a great push towards Lewes and then Glynde where our good friends John and Nessi had arranged to join us for the day as we continued East.

Unfortunately the rain then hit sooner than expected, and by the time we reached Pevensey, we were soaked. John was set on finding a farm shop selling sausages rolls and we found exactly that at Chilling farm - hot and delicious. A check of the weather forecast showed more rain coming, so we delayed our departure with a round of teas and coffees until the rain stopped. The wind continued to blow us East, making great progress and getting us to Hastings for a rendezvous with Lisa and a lovely meal at the The Stag pub. We bade farewell to John and Nessi, who cunningly returned to Brighton on the train, avoiding some killer headwinds. We made excellent progress from Hastings, through Rye to our campsite at Mackeys Farm at the top of a steep hill, as per Andy’s quest to continue to wind up Nadja with overnight accommodation on hill tops.

Day 2: Rye to Gravelines

70.88 km | 3:27:51 moving time | 259 m Elevation

From Sunshine to Sweet Surprises

Our day began under nearly clear skies, with a delightful tailwind propelling us towards Folkestone. The breeze was a gentle companion, making the ride smooth and enjoyable. In Folkestone, we reunited with Lisa for our Eurotunnel crossing.

A little hiccup with the pet passport meant an unexpected visit to the vet and a few annoying expenses but we soon found ourselves aboard the train, and before we knew it, we arrived in Calais.

The ride from Calais to Graveline was a breeze, quite literally. The 30km/h tailwind continued to be in our favour, swiftly carrying us to our campsite. Lisa greeted us there with a heartwarming cup of hot tea, the perfect antidote to the brisk wind.

Friends, traveling from Brighton to Paris, paid us a surprise visit. We shared delicious pizzas and took a leisurely stroll along the expansive beach. The evening ended with a yummy glass of Birthday Cake Baileys while writing up a quick summary of the day.

As we settle in for another early night, our thoughts are already on tomorrow's adventure: a 100km ride to Bruges. Here’s to hoping for favorable winds and more unforgettable moments!

Day 3: Watervliet to Antwerp

141.95 km | 6:55:21 Moving time | 377 m Elevation

Cycling Shenanigans: A Day of Sneezes, Hills, and Sneaky Shortcuts

Today was like a three-course meal of cycling, with a generous side of mishaps and laughter.

Starter Course: We kicked off the day at a French campsite in Graveline, gearing up to pedal our way to Belgium. Nadja began the morning with a symphony of sneezes, which Andy diagnosed as radiation poisoning from the nearby power station. Problem solved, Nadja decided to hold in her sneezes. We then faced the formidable Belgian hills with their towering 20-meter elevations, where Andy promptly claimed to have altitude sickness. In his valiant attempt to outsmart roadwork signs, Andy’s mission was foiled by a massive bridge that was conveniently closed for maintenance. Classic.

We rendezvoused with Lisa for a late breakfast around 10:30 AM, having already clocked 70 km. Our gourmet meal consisted of leftover pizza slices – breakfast of champions.

Main Course: The ride to Bruges was fairly smooth, thanks to a helpful tailwind. We took a breather at a motorhome park, where Lisa and Andy indulged in some ice cream while Nadja did a bit of work. Soon, we were savoring a delectable meal of lamb steaks with mashed potatoes and broccoli. I tried to buy Lisa of Andy because she’s the best motorhome wife in existence, but Andy wasn’t having any of it.

Dinner Course: After much debate, we decided to push on to Watervliet to meet up with Frank Poppe but by the end of our 140 km journey, we were utterly exhausted. We slipstreamed behind Lisa's van, making our way to the delightful accommodation Frank had booked for Nadja and just about managed to share a couple of beers before collapsing into bed. Thankfully, the resident donkey didn’t keep us awake and we got a good night’s rest in.

And there you have it – a day filled with sneezes, scenic “mountains,” and sneaky shortcuts. Here’s to more ridiculous adventures on the road!

Day 4: Watervliet to Antwerp

75.88 km | 3:56:07 moving time | 225 m Elevation

Belgian Beer Blues and Rainy Day Rides

Waking up this morning felt like trying to crawl out of a cement mixer – thanks, 8% Belgian beer, you really know how to party. But with bad weather on the horizon, we dragged ourselves out of bed early to rack up some miles before the rain gods had their say.

Frank gave us a hearty farewell at 6:30 AM, following us briefly with his van to capture some action shots – because nothing says "glamour" like our bleary-eyed morning faces on film. Today’s ride offered little tailwind, but at least the roads were flat and straight, sparing us from any twisty-turny nonsense.

We timed our stretch break perfectly, just as the first drops of rain began to fall. Andy’s muscles, still grumbling from yesterday’s epic journey, appreciated the pause. Our route took us through the river Scheldt, involving an escalator and a tunnel – a novel way to navigate a river, if you ask me. Miraculously, every traffic light in central Antwerp turned green for us. Clearly, the universe was throwing us a bone.

Despite the rain soaking us through, our spirits stayed buoyant. Seeing Lisa and Klaus the Haus Knaus at the end of our ride was like finding an oasis in a desert. The promise of a hot shower and a steaming cup of tea made the soggy slog worth it.

The rest of the day was pure bliss. We watched the heavy rain from the cozy confines of the van, dressed in clean, dry clothes (big shout-out to Lisa for doing the laundry and whipping up a killer lamb spaghetti Bolognese). Today might have started rough, but it ended in sweet, rainy-day relaxation. Cheers to small victories and good company!

Day 5: Antwerp to Roermond

116.75 km | 5:44:33 moving time | 280 m Elevation

Cycling Adventures: Breakfast Blunders, Belgian Banter, and Dutch Delights

Another day, another morning of Nadja forgetting to prep her breakfast. This time, she also missed out on tea because she assumed there was no water – spoiler alert, there was. The pièce de résistance was her having to do her business in the bushes because our toilet tank was full. Talk about a rough start!

The morning kicked off with a very wet road, leaving everything soaked and our bike chains starting to rust. After a quick wipe and oil session, we set off on our 120km journey. Most of the Belgian leg was along straight canals with flat side paths – a cyclist's dream. We met a speedy Belgian chap who told us about an 8km swim race in the canals on Sunday. Too bad we’ll miss it, but honestly, swimming in those canals doesn’t sound too appealing.

Nadja’s two highlights of the day? Seeing Lisa at lunch with a cup of tea and food, and then again in the evening with another hot cup of tea and more food. Simple pleasures! Today’s lunch was in a picturesque spot by the river: quinoa with vegetable chili bean burgers – absolutely delicious!

We didn't even realize we had crossed into the Netherlands until we spotted a Dutch flag. Along the way, we bought cherries from a roadside stand, where the shop owner regaled us with tales of his adventurous brother who traveled the world on a motorbike.

Andy had a near-miss when he took a corner too fast, skidding and almost landing in a patch of very big, stingy nettles. He recovered with the grace of a cat, pretending it was all part of his plan.

We arrived at our evening campsite to find Lisa parked by a beautiful lake, with the afternoon sun finally drying us out. Nadja couldn’t resist taking a swim in the lake. The day ended with a gorgeous sunset, hot showers, a full water tank, an empty toilet, and the discovery of a nearby designer outlet store – we might never see Lisa again!

Tomorrow promises a restful day at this tranquil campsite. We did encounter a few motorhome hiccups: a broken heater and a leaking hydraulic leveler. Thankfully, we managed to get an appointment with the broker to test the boiler and found a New Holland store that sold us a liter of hydraulic oil. Nadja couldn’t stop giggling as a John Deere tractor trimmed the hedges outside the New Holland store – a little brand rivalry humor to end the day.

Looking forward to a day off tomorrow – here’s to more unexpected adventures and hopefully a prepared breakfast!

Day 6 - Roermond

8.45 km | 35:19 moving time | 66 m Elevation

Lazy Mornings and Capitalist Cathedrals: A Day of Mud, Shopping, and Stroopwafels

We slept in today, which is nothing short of a miracle for Andy. Meanwhile, Nadja continued her streak of forgetting to prepare breakfast – four days in a row now. As our morning ritual, we cleaned the mud off our bikes and oiled the chains. Nadja maintained her eco-warrior status by emptying her dirty water into the grey water disposal, while Andy undid all that good karma by chucking his water on the grass.

Nadja’s air mattress decided to play dead for the second morning in a row. We think we found the leak and attacked it with superglue, fingers crossed it holds up.

Our next adventure was a trip to the designer outlet store, or as Andy likes to call it, the "capitalist cathedral." We had high hopes for lunch there, but it didn’t quite live up to Lisa’s culinary standards. However, the trip wasn’t a total bust. Lisa surprised Nadja with an early birthday gift: the most amazing Doc Martens, and we also stumbled upon stroopwafels, which we enjoyed back at the campsite with a nice cup of tea.

Andy took charge of navigating our way through town, managing to get it wrong at pretty much every turn. His sense of direction might need as much fixing as the remote control for the van doors, which, to his credit, he did manage to fix.

We encountered another motorhome identical to ours at the campsite. Nadja, ever the curious one, quizzed the owner about the boiler and gas issues. He confirmed we should NEVER use LPG and stick to pure propane gas. Could this be the solution to our heater problems? Lisa thinks it might be, at least until we hit higher altitudes.

So, here’s to a day of small victories, new boots, and stroopwafels. Tomorrow, we’ll see if our heater likes pure propane better than LPG and if Nadja can break her breakfast forgetting streak!

Day 7 - Roermond to Zons

86.34 km | 4:39:53 moving time | 378 m Elevation

Adventures in Smuggling, Mud, and Boiler Fixing

Today started on a high note as Nadja finally remembered to prepare breakfast the night before, breaking her five-day streak. Energized and ready, we set off on our clean bikes, which rapidly became filthy thanks to Andy’s brilliant navigation skills through thick mud.

Our morning ride felt like a smuggling operation, crisscrossing from Holland to Germany through a very muddy forest. The nature reserve reminded Nadja of historical smugglers and cigarette dealers from the World Wars era. Komoot and Strava tried to send us down the muddiest and sometimes non-existent paths but we finally made it out the other side and reached Mönchengladbach where we met with the boiler dealer.

He initially blamed us for all our heater problems and insisted the boiler was unfixable but eventually pointed us to the "Truma freak" across town. We wasted no time heading over and instantly felt we’d found the right guy for the job. Bastian, the technician, performed a couple of checks and diagnosed the fault with the burner. Despite being fully booked for weeks, he offered to come in on his day off, Saturday, to fix it. Talk about dedication!

With a glimmer of hope, Nadja and Andy continued their quest and reached the Rhine River just as the heavens opened, drenching us completely. We’d sorted of assumed we’d cycled only a short distance today but... Surprise! We clocked nearly 90km and more elevation in a day than in a week in Belgium.

Lisa had her own adventure, navigating narrow, muddy country lanes and discovering full campsites until finally finding a great paid car park next to the river in Zons. Dinner was chicken fajitas, followed by Lisa and Andy’s venture into town. Lisa indulged in the biggest strawberry, cream, and banana split of her life while Nadja stayed back, did the dishes, and totally failed to get any work done.

We’re all a bit hopeful yet apprehensive about Bastian fixing the boiler tomorrow. If all goes well, we’ll be back on the road towards Cologne by midday, picking up Adam en route to join us for a couple of days.

Here’s to hoping for a working boiler, less mud, and more sweet treats!

Here’s Nadja taking a look at tomorrow’s route with Miss Lola

Day 8 - Zons to Remagen

97.58 km | 4:43:57 moving time | 435 m Elevation

Boiler Fixes, Bakery Bliss, and Cologne Chaos

Today, we drove to Eickert for the much-needed boiler repairs. Bastian, our hero technician, fixed everything within three hours while we enjoyed coffee and croissants from the bakery across the street. We also took the chance to dry our clothes, still soggy from yesterday’s downpour. Nadja, in a moment of linguistic confusion, started translating German to German for Andy instead of to English. By the end of it, she’d had a crash course in LPG and boilers, becoming quite the expert.

Returning to Zons, we rejigged the van, had breakfast, and prepped our bikes. Nadja worked her charm on a warden to avoid a parking ticket.

On our way to Cologne, passing the Ford factory, Andy threw caution to the wind, ignoring all traffic rules and earning us some angry honks from the locals.

In Cologne, we met up with Adam at a playground on the outskirts. He gave us a whirlwind tour through the city. We snapped a quick picture of Cologne Cathedral, managed to stop at one red light, and annoyed the security guards outside the Intercontinental hotel who had cordoned it off for VIP and wanted us to cycle round it. Adam patiently listened to them, decided to be VIP and cycled past them. They did not find it funny.

The rest of the ride along the Rhine was smooth and scenic. We arrived at our campsite to find Lisa, who, as always, had dinner ready and had even done all our laundry. Tents pitched, we’re now enjoying a dry evening and a well-deserved beer. Adam, ever the character, tried to take a shower with a laundry coin and had to wander around in his underwear to change it out.

Here’s to successful repairs, dodging traffic tickets, and a hilarious end to a chaotic day in Cologne!

Day 9 - Remagen to Trechtingshausen

106.97 km | 5:07:46 moving time | 369 m Elevation

Slipstream Shenanigans and Toilet Triumphs: A Day on the Rhine

We left the campsite slightly late today, but at least it was already dry and warm. Nadja had a breakthrough with the mysterious button on the toilet cassette and is now a certified toilet-emptying expert. Who knew camping could be so glamorous?

Our morning started with coffee and croissants in Koblenz. Nadja asked Andy to get her sparkling water so Andy ordered ‘Wasser con gas’!

Shortly after, we met Lisa for sandwiches in the car park of a closed tile shop, which might just be the height of luxury. We also had a great catch-up call with Bryan. Lisa took on a new role as a videographer, expertly filming us cycling past her. We were riding so fast at that point that a random bloke decided to slipstream us. Lisa was wondering who that guy in the green shirt was.

Adam continued his kamikaze cycling style, seemingly missing or outright ignoring the 'no cycling' signs. We like to think he's adding a bit of excitement to our journey. Later in the evening he clarified that he thought these signs don’t apply on Sundays. Yeah, right.

The highlight of our day was seeing the world’s largest hand-carved free-hanging cuckoo clock. Because why not?

After clocking another 100km, we're now sitting right on the banks of the Rhine, watching the ships struggle upstream and fly downstream in the fast currents. Kudos to Lisa for navigating us down some very narrow roads to get here.

The river is bustling with container barges, chemical barges, party barges, and lots of geese (and their droppings). It's been a busy day, filled with slipstreaming strangers, videography sessions, and some top-notch toilet techniques. Here's to more adventures and fewer 'no cycling' signs!

Day 10 - Trechtingshausen to Mannheim

126.11 km | 6:07:49 moving time | 498 m elevation

From Castles to Vinyards: A Day of Smooth Rides and Monster Mosquitoes

Today’s landscape shifted from picturesque castles to sprawling fields, vinyards, and meadows, making for perfect cycling paths across varied terrain. We cruised through forests, industrial areas, towns, and big cities on a very smooth, sunny, and scorching hot day.

A quick coffee break and yummy croissants mid morning gave us the right energy to press on for our lunch rendezvous with Lisa. She found a fabulous spot with a great picnic table under a walnut tree for us.

Slipstreaming behind Nadja turned out to be impossible. She’s too compact on her bike and cruises at 30 km/h with hardly any effort. Seriously, it’s like she’s powered by magic.

We spotted lots of storks and herons in a field, which was a nice distraction until a vineyard tractor driver decided to go full Mario Kart on Adam. He just wouldn’t let Adam pass, weaving erratically in front of him.

We managed to beat Lisa to the campsite because she went shopping twice. Lola, our dog, is becoming a bit of a celebrity at the campsites. Everyone here knows her by now.

Oddly, the river started flowing in the wrong direction, and there were noticeably fewer ships. Where did they all go? There were fewer geese today as well, but the aggressive mosquitoes more than made up for their absence.

Today’s blogging enthusiasm is waning as we’re getting eaten alive by these winged terrors. And just as we thought we didn’t get told off by any Germans for a full day, a lady told us that our tent was a bit too close to her allocated campsite spot. Oh dear.

Here’s hoping for fewer bites and a smooth ride to France tomorrow!

Day 11 - Mannheim to Strasbourg

144.00 km | 6:29:21 moving time | 608 m elevation

From Mosquito Hell to French Adventures: A Day of Cycling Chaos

We left the mosquito terror in Mannheim—at least we thought we did. We proudly crossed the Rhine on a vehicle ferry which swept through the strong current with surprising agility, a big achievement for Lisa.

The day was a whirlwind of changing scenery, from industrial areas to fields and massive flood plains. We got soaked a couple of times due to flooded cycle paths next to the Rhine. Adam got yelled at three times by Germans for the same thing, whatever that was. We've noticed our speed has picked up; anything under 25 km/h now feels like we’re crawling.

We didn’t realize again that we’d crossed the border (this time from Germany to France), until we saw a French street sign.

We crushed 80 km before meeting Lisa for lunch, who had prepared an unbelievably yummy salad. We aimed for another 50 km after lunch but ended up doing 60 km, surprising ourselves.

We cycled past huge piles of gravel, feeling like heroes as we neared Strasbourg. In France, ignoring "route barrée" signs (closed cycle paths) is practically a sport, so we fit right in. Komoot tried to lead us over a bridge that didn’t exist, classic.

Adam, ever the daredevil, went for a swim in his pants and cycling helmet. Nadja, on the other hand, bought aloe vera—though insect repellent would've made more sense. Adam managed to get a flat tire literally 150 meters from the van. Of course, there are loads of mosquitoes here too, but dinner was lush, complete with two bottles of crémant, leaving us feeling adequately tipsy.

We’ve been swearing up a storm, slapping ourselves trying to kill these terror mosquitoes. Here’s hoping they aren’t the tiger mosquitoes from the BBC newscast we saw a few days ago. Nadja is sleeping in the van, feeling slightly sorry for Adam, who’s setting up his tent outside in mosquito central.

Shit, shit, shit—wish us luck in this mosquito-infested adventure! Writing a blog is tough when everything goes smoothly, but it’s damn near impossible when you’re under attack from bloodthirsty mosquitoes.

PS: Happy birthday to Andreas (Nadja’s boyfriend) and Nemo (Adam’s daughter)!

Day 12 - Strasbourg to Müllheim

117.96 km | 5:35:19 moving time | 383 m elevation

Screws, Crémant, and the Not-So-Short Ride: Our Strasbourg Adventure

The morning started with Adam losing his screws—literally. Maybe yesterday's crémant was a bit too much. Luckily, Nadja saved the day by finding his screwnut. Crisis averted.

We had planned a short, easy day, but, because we're gluttons for punishment, we ended up doing 118 km anyway. Strasbourg was a blast to cycle through. French cyclists have a wonderfully laid-back approach to traffic lights, which suits us just fine.

Instead of following the Rhine, we rode along beautiful stretches of a picturesque canal and even over a water bridge. We tagged along with a couple of pelotons, speeding along and feeling like pros. This led Andy to declare that we're basically doing the Tour de France. Sure, Andy, in terms of days maybe, but definitely not in distance or speed.

Nadja impressed Andy by asking for directions to a café in French and found the one boulangerie in town that actually sells coffee.

We have basically cycled in a straight line all morning to our lunch rendezvous with Lisa who had already done all our laundry and had a “very loud conversation” in French with the laundromat lady. We also got whined at by a French local for parking in a non-camper spot, but since there were no signs, we ignored him and enjoyed our lunch. Adam reckons it’s because we’re still quite close to Germany…

As we rode on, we finally started seeing these weird things poking out on the horizon that people call mountains.

The campsite we reached has a swimming pool and hardly any mosquitoes, making it very tempting to stay for a couple of nights. But, we’ve got our eyes set on Austria and then a day off before tackling the mountains.

We said farewell to Adam, who’s heading back home to his family tomorrow. It's been a hell of a ride, and we’re ready for whatever comes next—hopefully with fewer lost screws and more crémant. Cheers!

Day 13 - Müllheim to Neuenburg am Rhein

102.37 km | 5:23:38 moving time | 478 m elevation

Adieu Adam, Basel Bound: A Journey from Forests to Foresight

With heavy hearts, we bid farewell to Adam this morning. In true adventurer spirit, he woke up just before 7, without the aid of an alarm clock, just to see us off, even though he could have luxuriated in extra sleep.

Our path was a shadowy, gravel-strewn trail flanking the mighty Rhine, leading us inexorably towards Basel. Andy, with his notorious navigational quirks, managed to collide with a road sign—another notch on his belt of misadventures.

To commemorate our directional shift from south to east, we indulged in the most expensive coffee we've ever encountered at a humble café. For a brief, surreal moment, we thought Andy had clandestinely slipped into Switzerland. Relief washed over us when we remembered the Schengen visa—legal travel, after all. Our Swiss sojourn was fleeting, over in the blink of an hour.

Lisa joined us for an early lunch, her presence as comforting as the propane gas we finally managed to procure. The mountains loomed ever closer, and we could feel their ominous promise in the increasing gradients. The scorching heat bore down on us, but we no longer halted for the rain; instead, we relished its brief, cooling respite.

Lisa overtook us about an hour before our campsite, her vehicle a harbinger of rest. When she asked Andy how he felt, he replied with weary honesty—fine, but fatigued. We all crave a bit of recuperation before facing the formidable Austrian Alps. The first mountain pass awaits us a mere couple of days from now.

Nadja’s thighs, now as hard as the rocks we’ll soon be climbing, are a testament to our grueling journey. We decided to turn in early tonight, planning an ambitious 5 a.m. start to cover as much distance as possible before the heat of the day descends upon us.

As we drift into slumber, the whispers of the forest and the shadows of the impending mountains blend into our dreams, a harbinger of the challenges and triumphs yet to come.

Day 14 - Neuenburg am Rhein to Meersburg

108.86 km | 5:49:26 moving time | 857 m elevation

A Stormy Night, Bird Crap, and Bike Breakdowns: Our Journey Through Hell and High Water

I woke up in the dead of night, wondering why my bed was suddenly becoming an impromptu swimming pool. The answer came swiftly—I'd left the sunroof open, and a torrential downpour was drenching everything inside the van. Realizing there was no going back to sleep, we decided to get an early start to beat the heat. An hour into our ride, fate decided to deal us another hand: a breakdown. But before that, Nadja got a little present from above—a bird's unsolicited blessing.

The morning wasn't all doom and gloom, though. Standing on a weir, we watched the water surge through, a brief moment of tranquility amidst the chaos. Our breakdown happened conveniently close to a bike shop, just 4 km away, and a bakery, another kilometer further. We called Lisa for a rescue mission, waking her up from her slumber. She got lost on her way to us, but by the time she arrived, the bike was already fixed.

The bike mechanic at the shop initially declared I needed a new wheel. He didn’t have one, of course, nor any other spare parts, and required quite a bit of convincing to just clean out the wheel bearings. He also reprimanded me for wanting to use oil instead of grease and for the low air in the tires. After some grumbling, he cleaned it up, pumped the tires, and my bike no longer sounded like a dying cat.

Lisa set off towards Germany but ended up lost in Switzerland, the very country she wanted to avoid, and without data or maps. Meanwhile, Andy got stung near his eye, just to add another layer of misery to our day. We decided to stop for ice cream at the Rhine Falls, hoping to restart the day without further incidents.

Trying to locate Lisa through the van's tracking app was futile, but at least we saw she was heading in the right direction after a few border crossings. Irony bit us hard; on days when nothing happens, there’s barely anything to write about, but today, too much happened, and we were already fed up.

Andy tricked Nadja into taking an elevator on the way back up from the falls, and Andy's phone decided to join the breakdown brigade by refusing to recharge. This left Nadja in charge of navigation while Andy took an unplanned digital detox. Surprisingly, the afternoon turned out smoothly. We refilled our water bottles in a charming town, Andy bought a new T-shirt, and we crossed Lake Constance from Konstanz to Meersburg on a ferry.

Luckily we found Lisa settled in the shade at a lovely lakeside campsite. A long dip in Lake Constance, the source of the Rhine and end to our second section of the trip, to cool down, followed by washing our hair, rejuvenated our spirits. Bangers and mash for dinner, a soothing cup of tea, and the prospect of not moving tomorrow was the perfect end to our turbulent day.

And so, we go to bed, the day’s trials behind us, the horrors momentarily forgotten, and the promise of rest ahead.

Day 15 - Lake Constance

0 km | 0:00:00 moving time | 0 m elevation

A Midsummer's Restful Eve

Nadja, fair maiden of our journey, didst intend to sleep beneath the stars in her humble tent. Yet, upon spying a formidable thundercloud and the lightning’s fierce dance upon the horizon, she swiftly repacked her canvas abode. The tempest, however, did not assail us, and we were blessed with slumber deep and undisturbed till the sun's gentle rise at eight bells. Huzzah!

With morn's light, our noble Lisa did prepare a feast of bacon and eggs, a repast worthy of Michelin’s praise. Andy and Lisa embarked upon a quest to refill the gas, a necessary venture for our continued comfort. Meanwhile, Nadja, with dainty fingers, trimmed her nails, and in preparation for the morrow’s trials, did replenish her snack bag and meticulously reorganize her bike bags.

Andy, with care and diligence, did cleanse his trusty steed and affix new brake pads, readying for the Alpine ascent that looms ahead. As the day unfolded, we succumbed to the siren call of leisure. We lounged, we napped, indulging in sweet repose.

As the sun began its descent, Lisa once more donned the mantle of culinary maestro, crafting a dinner most delectable and brimming with the proteins needed for our Alpine ordeal. Ice cream followed, a divine dessert to crown our day of indulgence.

Thus, we reveled in a day of well-earned idleness, a day that was both our reprieve and our preparation for the formidable peaks that await.

Day 16 - Meersburg to Bludenz

107.73 km | 5:28:22 moving time | 650 m elevation

Daybreak Adventures and Austrian Borders

We rose at the ungodly hour of 5am, greeted by the faint glow of daybreak. Our mission: to conquer another stretch of our epic journey. We passed three bakeries, their intoxicating scent of fresh bread teasing us cruelly as none were yet open. Our communication was minimal during the first hour and a half, consisting of about one sentence on directions— the rest was a silent march of determination.

Lake Constance greeted us with an unwelcome surprise: its waters had risen so high that the cycle path was submerged, soaking our shoes in the process. Ah, the joys of international cycling!

After traversing England, France, Belgium, Holland, Germany, and Switzerland, we finally rolled into Austria, the last country on our itinerary. The journey remained watery for most of the day, but now these imposing geological features—mountains—began to dominate the horizon.

The border sign to Austria was comically understated, hidden in a hedge and plastered with stickers. We beat Lisa to the halfway meetup point, though in truth, she couldn’t leave the campsite until after 9am. We’ll keep that little victory to ourselves.

Our planned road layby finish point seemed too pedestrian, so we ambitiously tacked on another 19km to reach a more civilized campsite, bringing the day’s total to a respectable 108km. We even outpaced the impending thunderstorm, which seemed to chase us to the campsite, giving us a literal push from behind.

Upon checking in, we discovered the Arlberg Pass was closed to cyclists—oh, the joys of spontaneous re-routing! We’re now set to tackle the Silvretta High Alpine Road, a longer and higher detour. The afternoon was consumed by frantic planning for tomorrow's detour.

Lisa, ever the culinary savior, whipped up a delicious chili con lamb, boosting our spirits. We’re feeling a mix of apprehension and excitement for tomorrow’s challenge. Here’s hoping we have enough breath to make it to the top.

Day 17 - Bludenz to Gaschurn

33.07 km | 2:02:05 moving time | 568 m elevation

A Day of Mysterious Decisions and Unexpected Turns

This morning unfurled like a classic Agatha Christie mystery, shrouded in uncertainty and suspense. Our initial excitement about scaling a great mountain was dampened by the looming threat of worsening weather. After much deliberation, weighing the risks of slippery roads and cold temperatures (below 10 degrees Celsius), and lamenting the lack of panoramic views, we decided it wasn’t worth the peril. Instead, we opted for a more cautious approach, cycling up the valley to the last campsite before the start of the high alpine toll road, with hopes to attempt the climb anew tomorrow.

Our ride to Gaschurn began on a hopeful note, as we set off at just the right moment, under a fortunate weather window, following a picturesque turquoise river. Our progress was so swift and smooth that Andy, in his fervor, entirely missed the campsite. Astonishingly, we had actually cycled right through it, oblivious, and had to execute a dramatic U-turn about 2km further along. The first time we had reached the campsite, we were dry and cheerful. The second time, however, we were drenched to the bone, a testament to the capricious nature of our journey.

The afternoon was spent in cozy camaraderie inside the van, engaging in lively conversation and playing chicken feet, with Nadja claiming her first victory. Though it wasn’t the most thrilling day by usual standards, it provided more good rest. We now eagerly anticipate tomorrow, which promises to be dry and mild—a perfect setting for our first high alpine adventure.

The day may have been unremarkable, yet it set the stage for what we hope will be a grand and triumphant climb. Until then, we remain in good spirits, ever ready to embrace the mysteries and challenges that lie ahead.

Day 18 - Silvretta High Alpine Road

91.19 km | 5:22:58 moving time | 1,434 m elevation

A Day of Natural Wonder and Human Endeavour

Good evening to all. After a restful night, we awoke to the gentle cessation of rain and the harmonious chirping of birds, a truly serene start to our day. Today’s journey was nothing short of an epic adventure, as we embarked on the formidable Silvretta High Alpine Pass.

Early in the day, we encountered an Archimedes screw, a fascinating piece of ancient engineering. Andy was particularly eager to demonstrate how this ingenious device can lift water uphill, an impressive feat that set the tone for our day of ascent.

As we began our climb, the initial hairpin bends of the Silvretta High Alpine Pass presented a significant challenge. Yet, as our muscles warmed up, the arduous task became surprisingly manageable. Our spirits were lifted further by the presence of Lisa, who met us at hairpin 11 and again at 23.5. We were buoyed by the sound of a chiffchaff, seemingly accompanying us all the way from England, its cheerful calls a constant encouragement.

When we reached the Vermuntstausee, Lisa was there once more, and we gratefully donned extra layers as the temperature plummeted. The encouragement continued, this time from motorbike riders who admired our tenacity for not using e-bikes, referring to our mode of transportation as “Ehrenantrieb,” or honorary drive.

The climb was a symphony of natural sounds—horses and cows with their melodious cowbells, and the ever-present rush of waterfalls. These sounds, unfiltered and unmuted, were a gift granted by our choice of push bikes over motorized alternatives.

At the summit, Silvretta Stausee, standing at a majestic 2032 meters, Lisa awaited us with a warm motorhome and hot tea. Refreshed, we prepared for the real thrill: the descent. Cloaked in warm attire, we began our rapid descent, reaching speeds of up to 77 km/h. The descent was exhilarating, though the tunnels presented a terrifying challenge. We navigated around one, but the undergrowth thwarted our attempt to bypass another, forcing us to speed through, narrowly avoiding monstrous lorries.

After a rejuvenating sandwich in our support vehicle, a minor mishap occurred—Lisa, in a fit of laughter, choked and sprayed tea everywhere, creating a chaotic but humorous moment. Lola, our loyal support dog, was rewarded with a lamb bone for her unwavering support.

Our journey concluded in Imst, having covered 90km. We stretched, enjoyed a well-deserved beer, and indulged in great food, reflecting on the day's accomplishments. As we look forward to tomorrow, we are eager to see how our bodies respond to the trials and triumphs of today.

Day 19 - Imst to Pill

93.01 km | 4:52:12 moving time | 477 m elevation

A Day of Adventures, Misadventures, and Laundry in the Heart of the Tyrolean Alps

The weather cleared earlier than we anticipated, but we found ourselves in no great hurry. We set off just after eight, the morning sun casting long shadows over the campsite. Lisa, ever the early riser, had already snuck out of the van for a shower before her morning tea. Her industrious spirit was evident as she commandeered four washing machines and three dryers, transforming a mountain of laundry into neatly folded piles.

Our journey took us along the serene banks of the River Inn, the morning air filled with the promise of adventure. We pedaled through Innsbruck, a city cradled by towering peaks, and found our way to a quaint place named Pill. Our muscles, remarkably resilient, carried us smoothly, though the uphill climbs reminded us of the strain we’d put them through.

A diversion brought us to a ski jumping school, where we paused to watch the athletes train on a dry ramp. The sight was a testament to human perseverance, a fitting metaphor for our own journey. Our path meandered through the picturesque Tirolean fields, each turn offering a new vista of nature’s splendor.

As we neared our campsite, Andy discovered a path—one that could be described as beautiful only with a heavy dose of sarcasm. It was a narrow strip squeezed between the roaring river and a cacophonous motorway, and we rattled along it for a good twenty minutes. The constant din of traffic was a stark contrast to the tranquil beauty we’d experienced earlier.

Amid our travels, a call from Lisa brought news of a minor predicament. She’d run out of coins at the car wash and was trying to save a parking spot simultaneously. We hurried to gather more coins, but not before she had a close call with the washing hoses, nearly ripping the awning from the van. Thankfully, we escaped with only a small scrape, a minor blemish on an otherwise successful day.

The threat of rain had loomed all day, but fortune smiled upon us, and we managed to evade the downpour. Lola, our ever-enthusiastic canine companion, had a brief but spirited chase after a chicken. The indignant bird escaped unharmed, its fate reprieved by our dinner plans of salmon.

As we settled in for the night, our thoughts turned to the climb up to Gerlos tomorrow. The day’s trials and triumphs have left us with a sense of weary satisfaction, and we look forward to the challenges that lay ahead.

Day 20 - Gerlos Pass

142.30 km | 7:58:52 moving time | 1,564 m elevation

A Regal Day of Cycling: Conquering the Gerlos Pass

The alarm heralded the dawn at precisely 5:20 am, prompting us to commence our journey shortly after 6 am. Our route began on a relatively flat path alongside the tranquil Ziller River. As the morning progressed, we encountered delightful pastries, which we enjoyed with Lisa in Zell am Ziller. It should be noted that Lisa has a marked preference for croissants over poppy seed swirls.

Our course then led us up to Gerlos, marking the second mountain pass of our expedition. The traffic was quite formidable, yet our spirits remained unyielding. Upon reaching the summit, we were rewarded with a splendid view of the Großvenediger. Lunch was taken in a picturesque setting, comfortably removed from the hustle and bustle, before we embarked on a rather challenging descent.

At one particularly sharp hairpin turn, Nadja, ever vigilant, scanned for oncoming traffic. Finding none, she adeptly navigated the racing line only to encounter two cows lounging contentedly in the middle of the turn. Fortunately, no harm befell anyone in this unexpected encounter.

Emboldened by our success, we resolved to continue another 70 km to just before the commencement of the Großglockner High Alpine Road. Despite facing some headwind in the afternoon, our progress was smooth, and we were greatly relieved upon sighting Lisa, Miss Lola and Klaus the Haus Knaus at the campsite.

Remarkably, today was the first day of our journey without a single reprimand from fellow travelers. Instead, we were met with an abundance of courtesy from drivers, a testament to the respect and goodwill that can flourish even on the open road.

Day 21 - Großglockner High Alpine Road

80.05 km | 6:22:53 moving time | 2,094 m elevation

A Journey Fit for an Emperor: Conquering the Heights

Our most feared, ambitious, and difficult day commenced at the imperial hour of 5:20 am, as we endeavoured to outpace both traffic and heat. The climb was steady yet seemingly endless. Lisa, our noble support, provided excellent assistance throughout the ascent, stopping multiple times to offer KitKats, water, food, a toilet, and, above all, boundless motivation.

At about a third of the way up, Andy found himself struggling, his muscles requiring a regal stretch and more hydration and energy. Despite being overtaken by numerous robust and dashing young men (and one equally impressive woman), our resolve remained unshaken. In a spirit befitting the nobility, we assisted a fellow cyclist who had succumbed to cramp, his comrades having deserted him. The camaraderie of our team shone brightly, with no one left behind.

Upon reaching the first summit, we were once again greeted by Lisa, this time with a hot cup of tea – a most welcome sight. The journey to the second summit proved more arduous, as the descent had cooled our muscles, leaving us to struggle up the other side. Nevertheless, we pressed on, finding a charming spot for lunch away from the cacophony of traffic, before descending into the valley on the other side of the mountain.

The thrill of reaching top speed as we descended was unparalleled. We then leisurely followed the stream through the picturesque valley, adorned with numerous waterfalls, until we arrived at the campsite. The scorching afternoon prompted us to cool down in the river, an experience that made Andy yodel from the cold.

As the day draws to a close at 8 pm, we have enjoyed yet another fabulous dinner and are ready to retire for the night. With only 300 km remaining to Graz, we are filled with imperial determination. Onward we ride, with spirits as high as the peaks we have conquered!

Day 22 - Stall to Kreischberg

137.06 km | 8:16:31 moving time | 1,993 m elevation

Reflections on Resilience: The Journey to Grandpa's

My fellow adventurers, today we embarked on a journey that tested our resolve and demonstrated the strength of our spirit. After the grueling climb of Grossglockner yesterday, we approached today with flexibility, ready to listen to our bodies and adapt as needed. Lisa, ever the voice of wisdom, suggested that a day of rest might do us some good.

Early in the day, we stumbled upon an incredible rest stop run by a local named Peter. This haven for cyclists had everything we could need, and Peter asked only for donations and a note in his guest book. His generosity and love for cyclists were palpable, reminding us of the kindness that exists in the world.

Our journey continued with Andy giving Lisa a rough idea of where to meet for a lunch break. This led Lisa up a narrow path in the motorhome, only to find it wasn't suitable. Eventually, she found a much better spot further down the hill, where we regrouped for a well-deserved tea break.

With another meeting point arranged just before our final ascent to Katschberg, we gathered for lunch. Despite the challenging morning, we decided to push on to Nadja's grandpa's home, another 70km away. Little did we know that the final ascent would be steeper and more relentless than anything we had faced before. Nadja, feeling the strain of the climb, even worried her lunch might make an unwelcome reappearance. We encountered a fellow cyclist, loaded with gear from three months on the road, who impressively beat us to the top. But we persevered and made it.

The descent was harrowing. Andy lost confidence in his brakes, so Nadja took the lead. Meanwhile, Lisa, without even being in a hurry, got stopped by the police for speeding but managed to get off with a minimum cash fine with pure charme and personality. We eventually reached the bottom and spotted the River Mur, which flows all the way to our final destination, Graz. The sight filled us with premature excitement—we were far from done.

The remainder of our journey to Grandpa's was a slog, filled with relentless ups and downs and even a run-in with Oompah Loompa bands blocking the cycling paths. We met Lisa at the Kreischberg Talstation and made our way to the golf club restaurant for a gourmet schnitzel and a big beer with Grandpa. It was a moment of much-needed respite and celebration.

For the night, we separated. Nadja enjoyed the comfort of a proper bed at Grandpa's, while Andy and Lisa had a surprisingly comfortable night at the golf club car park. Reflecting on the day's journey, it was undoubtedly one of the most exhausting and testing days for us all. But it was also a testament to our resilience, our ability to support each other, and the unyielding spirit that drives us forward.

Here's to the challenges that make us stronger and the bonds that keep us united. Onward to Graz, with determination and hope.

Day 23 - Kreischberg to Leoben

112.38 km | 5:49:19 moving time | 879 m elevation

A Comfortably Late Start and a Comically Challenging Day

Good morning, fellow adventurers and lovers of absurdity! Today began with what we might call a "comfortably late start." So late, in fact, that Grandpa was worried Nadja had overslept. But fear not, dear readers, for Grandpa had already secured pastries from the bakery for everyone. After a leisurely breakfast, Nadja dutifully delivered fresh pastries to Andy and Lisa. And thus, with bellies full and spirits high, we embarked on the penultimate leg of this epic journey.

Our first encounter of the day was with a 'Frühschoppen'—a delightful Austrian tradition where locals don their lederhosen and dirndls and enjoy a tipple before noon. Nadja, ever the cultural ambassador, assured us this is perfectly normal for Sundays in Austria. We marvelled at the frills, the lederhosen, and the general merriment before continuing on our way.

The journey to our lunch rendezvous with Lisa took an unexpected twist—literally and figuratively. The lunch spot was atop a very steep hill. Andy, in a fit of forgetfulness, tried to blame Lisa for the arduous climb. We soon realized the spot was suggested by none other than Andy himself, and Lisa had merely followed his misguided instructions. Nadja found this particularly amusing, especially as Andy cursed his way up the incline, providing us with some first-rate entertainment.

En route, we caught the tail end of another local festival. Picture it: Austrians dancing and playing to the Birdie Song. Yes, you read that right. The Birdie Song. It's a sight to behold, and one we won't soon forget.

But the comedy of errors didn't end there. Going up yet another hill, Nadja, momentarily distracted by a vandalized sign, took a corner too quickly and collided with a concrete wall (she’s fine!). The impact broke her spokes, making the tire wobble precariously. The downhill ride that followed was a tad less enjoyable, but we pressed on, ever the intrepid explorers.

Over the Styrian hills we went (never mind Nadja’s optimistic claim that it was all downhill from here) to reach our final destination for the day near Leoben. We covered another 113km, had a hearty laugh at lunch over Andy’s navigational mishap, avoided the rain, and relished the thought of our final ride into Graz tomorrow. Nadja’s mum is planning to welcome us home with lunch, and the anticipation is almost too much to bear.

So, as we prepare for our final day, we leave you with this: adventure, like comedy, is all about timing. And today, we nailed it. Onward to Graz, with laughter in our hearts and pastries in our bellies!

Day 24 - Leoben to Graz

86.28 km | 4:20:01 moving time | 470 m elevatin

A High-Octane Finale: The Last Leg to Graz

Ladies and gentlemen, start your engines! Our day began at the bike shop, where Nadja displayed the tenacity of a champion, convincing a reluctant technician to take the buckle out of her front wheel, a casualty of yesterday's high-speed crash into a concrete wall. With the bike ready and spirits high, we zoomed off towards our final destination: Graz, a mere 90km ahead.

The strategy was simple—minimal stops, maximum momentum. We allowed ourselves only one pee break and a brief coffee pit stop, giving Andy the opportunity for a grand finale. But, like any great race, there was drama on the track: our first "argument" of the trip, over navigation, no less! But we powered through, focused on the finish line.

As we rolled into Graz, the scene was nothing short of spectacular. My mum, holding a "Welcome Home" sign, and Nan, with the finishing line ready, were there to greet us. Robert was enthusiastically playing with a squash box, adding to the commotion that had drawn out curious neighbours and even the owner of the local Chinese restaurant.

Victory celebrations kicked off with chicken, salad, beer, and schnapps, followed by the most cherished prize of all—a nice, hot shower. But the festivities didn't stop there. We moved on to our next stop, aptly dubbed "home from home to home," where we were greeted with beer, prosecco, whiskey, and a barbeque. The evening was perfect—no wind, no rain, and, blissfully, no mosquitoes.

And there we have it, folks. An epic journey concluded with a triumphant finish, surrounded by family, friends, and the warmth of a perfect evening. As the sun set on our adventure, we basked in the glow of accomplishment and camaraderie. Until the next bikeventure, keep your wheels spinning and your spirits high!